June 22, 2003

Salisbury and beyond...

Now to continue.

The tour that left from the rail station went through the city of Salisbury for a quick tour around before heading out into the countryside to Stonehenge. This is something I have wanted to experience for myself, up close and personal for many years. So it was quite exciting for me. The only 2 disappointments were the blatant commercialism and touristy atmosphere that surronds the place (wish I could have seen it 30 years ago when one could still actually walk into the structure and touch the stone) and the huge crowds that have made it necessary to put up barriers to keep people from getting at the stone with implements of destruction. The guide told us that when he was a young lad growing up in Salisbury, it was a regular pastime to go out there and try to carve your initials in the ultra hard stone. In recent years the assholes and braindead bozos have been taking spray paint out to put their initials on the stones along with other more crude messages. Thus the cct cameras, barriers and fulltime police presence. Thanks to all the idiots of the world for ruining it for everyone.

All that aside I did enjoy having the opportunity to see the stones, learn about the methods used to cut, construct and assemble them and to experience this incredible location. This area of England known as the Salisbury planes is very special. The original site of the city of Sarum still stands tall on its tiered plateau. The many burial mounds surrounding Sarum and Stonehenge are still there with sheep grazing atop them. The "ley-lines" or "lay lines" that cross at stonehenge set up a powerful electromagnetic field that effects a pair of dowsing rods held loosely in the hands (I tried this and it really does happen). There are several fascinating aspects to the area and you can read all about it at http://www.mysteriousplaces.com/stonehenge/

The bus left Stonehenge by the back road to give us a tour of the Barrows Burial Mounds and a different view of Salisbury City. I got dropped in town. Finding the tourist info office was not an easy task with the signs pointing the wrong way etc. It turned out to be only a block from where the bus dropped me but was around a curve so not visible and the signs sent me on a major hike dragging my luggage behind me.

There is no left-luggage facility anywhere in Salisbury... not the rail station, not the bus terminal, not the info office... nowhere. So, I had to drag it around with me all day. I visited Salisbury Cathedral (http://salisburycathedral.co.uk/) where, after a 30 minute self guided tour of the cathedral, I also took a guided tour of the bell tower and spire. The total height is 404 feet and we climbed about 330 steps up to 220 feet above ground level to the "8 doors". We stopped to sit on the bells level to await the striking of the hour at 4:00 and were not disappointed. Being on the same floor with those bells is quite the experience. After walking back down I visited the Chapter House where the Magna Carta is on display along with antiquities from the Cathedrals past. Lastly a quick visit to get supper from the cafe and then a souvenir grab in the shop.

Next, a long walk back to the train station, hopped on the train to Reading (2 trains to get there) where I planned to stay the night. Finding accommodation was nearly impossible until I entrusted a taxi to find one. So I stayed at a small B&B Hotel for CDN$70. I left there at 5:15am to walk back to the train station to catch the bus to Heathrow at 5:30. Got to Heathrow at 6:10, checked in at the SwissAir desk, checked my luggage, cleared security and waited. The flight left on time at 8:10am. It was a 2 hour flight with breakfast to Zurich. A period of 1 hr 35 minutes between flights and onto the next leg of the journey... Zurich to Montreal, 8 1/2 hours. Had to wait 2 hours in Dorval Airport for the SwissAir bus to Ottawa. Got to Tom's about 9:00pm Thursday night.

I am still suffering from jet lag and the sudden attack on my system of the Canadian Spring/Summer allergies. I know how to counteract Eastbound jet lag but I still don't have a handle on Westbound jet lag. I'm just not able to sleep on a reasonable schedule and have been waking up at 4am, 5:30am, etc. and unable to get back to sleep. If anyone out there has a good Westbound jet-lag solution or prevention please let me know.

Yesterday I was able to procure a place to live for the summer. I will be back in the Byward Market on Clarence street. I move my stuff over there tomorrow morning with the help of my brother Robin and his trusty old van. There's not much to move so it will be quick. The unpacking will be a different story. Laundry will be a major focus for a day in order to freshen up the stuff that's been in storage all winter or all spring.

Well that's the end of the travel log for a while. When I take trips in the future I will report on them here. This weekend I will be doing my Advanced Open Water Diver's Certification. This means I will be away all day Saturday and Sunday getting wet and water logged. My goal is to get an Instructor's Certificate eventually... hopefully sooner rather than later. It'll be a lot of work and diving but I'm a more than willing participant.

Thanks to everyone who has been keeping track of my travels. Keep in touch and let me know all about where you are going on vacation or other travels you take.

Posted by gailene at 10:37 PM

More updating

Ireland: I left London by train at about 8:00am headed for Holyhead in Wales. Holyhead is little more than a community to support the ferry and train transportation that comes and goes at the port there. The train station is right next to the ferry port so the walk from the train to the ferry is only about 2 minutes and completely enclosed. I was supposed to go via Stena Line Ferries (http://www7.stenaline.co.uk/servlet/se.ementor.econgero.servlet.presentation.Main?data.node.id=1&data.language.id=2)
but they have had some major bad luck... one of the engines on their fastcat blew just before coming into port in the morning and they had to keep it and the big ferry in port for repair work to be done. I don't know the reason but I'm guessing that they need all the engineering crew from both vessels working to remove the damaged engine, repair it (or replace it) and install the fixed/new engine. So I had to take an Irish Ferries boat (http://www.irishferries.com/), the Swift - named for Jonathan Swift, which meant I stood on que for over an hour hoping to get onto the fast cat ferry. Luckily, I got on the fast cat (Swift) whereas some people (some of whom were que-jumpers) got stuck on the cruise ferry which takes 3 1/2 hours to cross while the Swift takes 1 hr 25 minutes.

When the ferry arrived in Dublin (http://www.visitdublin.com/) we were bused into the city centre to the bus terminal. It was about 6:00pm when we arrived. The train trip through the English and Welsh country side was wonderful. The scenery here is nothing short of fabulous. Everywhere you look are lush green rolling hills, fertile farmland and healthy looking crops. Sheep, cattle, cows and horses are everywhere. England has very little untouched land left. Even the forested areas are usually occupied or owned by someone who has built on or cultivated it somehow. The ferry ride was lacking in scenery but mainly due to the rain, mist and fog.

In Dublin my first priority because of the late hour was to find a hotel. I walked across the Liffy to the south side of town as I was warned that the northside is a little "rough". Found a nice hotel in Temple Bar (http://www.irishtourism.com/dublin-hotels/dublin-hotels-templebar2.htm) but it was pricey and Temple Bar is the party centre of Dublin. Loud, noisey drunks stagger about the narrow lanes and cobbled street 7 nights a week. After settling into the hotel I went for supper at a place called The Elephant & Castle. It was mediocre and non-relaxing. Nothing at all like The Elephant & Castle in Ottawa.

So, the next day, having been woken by loud drunks singing slurred versions of old Irish classics off key, I decided to move hotels the next day. I took a place on Stephen's Green Street South, Staunton's on the Green (http://www.irishtourism.com/dublin-hotels/dublin-hotels-south5.htm). It is a Georgian townhouse overlooking Stephen's Green, the largest and most beautifully lush park in Dublin. I was much happier there with my view of the park and the much quieter nights. Again, it was a bit pricey but then everything in Dublin is. I found the restaurants prices to be twice what I'd expect in Ottawa. Dublin is a large city but has very few tall buildings. I was told there are hieght restrictions in many parts of the city. That was a general trend in most of the Scandinavian cities and throughout Ireland.

I really enjoyed Dublin. The tourist info centre is located in an old church (St. Andrews) in the middle of town. There are several pedestrianised (an Irish word?) streets in the major shopping districts. Trinity College is a large campus oozing historical atmosphere located right in downtown Dublin. I visited several museums, took a couple of bus tours and enjoyed several excellent meals. One place I ate is a multi-level food emporium called Bewley's which has been in the same location since the 1840s. Grafton Street (http://www.softguides.com/dublin/shopping/) is a famous shopping district that has spread onto several small side streets.

At Trinity College I walked through the grounds to the Old Library (http://216.239.57.100/search?q=cache:1kABoglIGFoJ:www.visitdublin.com/historic/detail.asp%3FID%3D1358+&hl=en&ie=UTF-8) building. This building houses the Book of Kells (http://www.tcd.ie/Library/Visitors/kells.htm). This 9th century illuminated manuscript was fascinating to see. There is also an excellent exhibition about the manuscript and its making showing details of the actual methods used.

The Old Library itself is wonderful. They have display cases with ancient books and manuscripts dating from the 4th to 19th centuries on view. The building itself is fascinating historically and the library is still a working library. If you are doing research that brings you to the need to refer to these old tomes you can arrange to view them.

That evening after supper I boarded the Ghost Bus Tour (http://www.visitdublin.com/directory/detail.asp?ID=345). It was a fun evening of riding around town getting all the "scary" ghost stories and visiting haunted places such as "The 40 Steps" of Christ Church Cathedral and a couple of graveyards. The next day after a long, deep sleep, I took the hop-on-hop-off bus tour of Dublin. After doing the full tour I rode the bus to the Irish Museum of Decorative Arts and History (http://www.museum.ie/) where I spent the rest of the day. I loved this museum.

The desk clerk suggested Kitty Kaboodle's for supper and it was an excellent choice. A small, cozy little restaurant with more atmosphere than any tourist could hope for. The food was great, the service fast and efficient and the staff friendly.

The next day was a true whirlwind tour of Historic sites: Christ Church Cathedral and crypt (http://www.cccdub.ie/); St. Patrick's Cathedral (http://www.stpatrickscathedral.ie/); Marsh's Library (Dublin's first public library still preserved in its original state) (http://www.marshlibrary.ie/); Dublin Castle and Powder Tower ruins (http://www.dublincastle.ie/home_no_fla.html); back to the Tourist Office (http://www.visitdublin.com/); Nassau Street shopping (http://www.softguides.com/dublin/shopping/); Museum of History and Culture (http://www.dublintourist.com/Info.cgi/natio002.shtml). A very busy day that I ended with a lovely Indian meal at Saffron's 2000 Restaurant.

The next day I did a load of laundry which was essential if I was to continue wearing clean clothes. Then a taxi to Heuston Rail Station to get the train to Cork. In Cork I had quite a time finding the Tourist Info office which is quite far from both the Train and Bus Stations. Once there I booked into Sheila's Budget Accommodation Centre (a hostel). A young fellow was in the info office also booking a room at the hostel so we walked to it together. Once settled in I walked down the road a few blocks to find a restaurant that looked interesting and found "A Taste of Thailand" where I ate supper. Sheila's also has Internet access so when I returned I spent a little time doing e-mail and blog updates. As the evening progressed the drunken partiers in the kitchen area began getting louder and louder until I could barely hear myself think. The computers are right next to the kitchen area so I had to quit the blog updating before I got dragged into the childish throng. Drunken 20 year old German girls sound vacuous and slutty.

In the morning I got an early bus to Skibbereen. I was going to vsit Caroline there but she is still in Sydney, Australia. She did suggest that I contact and visit her parents though and so I called her Mom before leaving Cork to settle a good time for a visit. Eileen was so sweet, she came to get me from the bus stop because where they live is on a farm outside the town. During the ride to the house she invited me to stay overnight and I accepted. I felt I was going to like this woman and her family so did not hesitate for a moment. My instinct was right.

Eileen and David showed me all over County Cork, or at least the south west of it. They took me to lunch/tea at a couple of lovely family restaurants, I joined them for church on Sunday, they took me to meet all the kids and their families in the area (one son is in Germany), we visited castles, churches and saw some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. We went to Mizen Head Peninsula (http://www.cork-guide.ie/mizen.htm), the most southwest point of Ireland and to the legendary Loch Lein (sp?). But the best part of the tours, and there were many great things that I enjoyed, was the visit to Castle Kilcoe.

Castle Kilcoe has been lovingly restored and renovated for modern use but with a strong desire to keep it feeling like an authentic medieval castle. It is not huge but it is big enough. The owner has filled it with a most outstanding collection of antique furniture and antiquities. Even though the bathrooms have all the modern conveniences the "feel" is still very authentic. Not an easy accomplishment. The kitchen is similar but with the best of stainless steel appliances and modern kitchen utensils. The great room is filled with warm touches such as the 2 gigantic sofas that seem to swallow one whole. There are coverlets, rugs, tapestries and other warming comforts. Candle sticks of grand proportions and ancient looking chandeliers and lighting fixtures are everywhere. The electrical system is all new as is the plumbing.

The bedrooms are the most authentic feeling of the rooms because many of the beds are built using the original historic methods. The bedrooms are small and cozy with the exception of the master suite which is purched on the top floor of the castle and has a huge soaker tub in it. This suite has a high vaulted ceiling with rafters of timber. There is a 'widow's walk' all around its exterior with fabulous panoramic views of the peninsulas of the southwest corner of Ireland.

The castle tower is 110 feet high with a private, hidden jacuzzi on top.

The castle was nothing more than a tumble down ruin when it was purchased but the owner has spent a lot of time, effort and money on it over the past 4 or 5 years. The work is far from complete and workers are on site every day trying to complete the project this year. Fingers crossed.

I ended up staying at Caroline's parents' house for a second night. I left there on Monday morning to take the bus to Cork. I stayed over in Cork for the night in Monday at Sheila's again. This time there was a room with private ensuite for just one euro more. I was on the first of 3 trains from Cork to Rosslare early in the morning and got the ferry from Rosslare to Fishguard, Wales about 6:30pm. Once in Fishguard I had to hire a taxi to get me to Havenfordwest where there is a train station. I got a room there for the night and was on the first morning train at 6:40am towards Salisbury. It took 3 trains to get there but the connections were 10 minute connections making it go pretty fast. I got to Salisbury about 12:45 and took the Stonehenge tour bus from the Rail Station.

More about Stonehenge later. I have been at this all afternoon and want to take a break now.

I am back in Ottawa and have rented a room in the Byward Market, my old neighbourhood and the place that still feels most like home to me. If anyone wants to contact me by phone, the cellphone number is 613-797-4068.

Posted by gailene at 12:07 PM

June 20, 2003

Back in Ottawa...

... and not yet up to date. Well I'm changing that right now. Where last I left off I was in London having a curry with Pooneh. I have since gone back to add website links to those entries. It will make it easier for those of you who are interested in knowing more about the places I visited.

For those of you who did not know or who may have forgotten, I was in England and Scotland 2 years ago. On that trip I visited almost every major tourist site and several secondary ones in London during a total of 5 1/2 days there. The only thing I wanted to do but was unable to get to due to lack of time was St. Paul's Cathedral. Well I did go to it as my first activity upon arrival and spend about 2 1/2 hours there before I was booted out with the throng at closing. It was mostly being restored so the outside and half the interior are covered with scaffloding and pigeon-net. When Michelle and I toured Europe in 1985 or 86 (I can never remember which) one of the prime themes of all our travels and photos was the scaffolding and pigeon netting everywhere we went. We called it our "scaffolding tour of Europe." Well England and Ireland are now under the same sort of restoration so I could call this trip my "scaffolding tour of England and Ireland."

All of that to say that I did not spend much time in the city of London except in the evening when I returned for the night. That is also when Pooneh and I were able to visit with each other. She is just finishing up her end of year work-terms and has/had many reports, papers, etc. to be completed while working her assigned job and her evening waitress job in "Ronnie Scotts Jazz Club." This meant that daytime and some evenings we were both busy.

The weather in London was as expected... cool, damp with drizzle interspersed with sunny bits and some all out rain showers. When the sun came out it was too warm for a jacket and Londoners were running about in short sleeves and summer clothes. I was wearing long-sleeves and a jacket that was too warm in the sun but that I needed under clouds.

I was off on a day-away to Leeds Castle (http://www.leeds-castle.com/) where I saw birds I may never see again like the all white (possibly Albino) peacock. He was an extremely friendly fellow... I think he is trying to get attention. It can't be easy to attract a peahen with his colourless tail feathers. He boldly approaches everyone and prances around posing for photos and loves any one who pays him any attention. There are a few colourful peacocks and peahens (although they haven't the tail they still have the body colouring) around the extensive grounds. There are many black swans with their bright red beaks including a family of five (3 youngsters) who posed for pics. Swans. geese and a huge variety of ducks everywhere. There's an exotic bird enclosure and several exotic birds roam free.

The Castle itself is very impressive. Think of what it is like to tread the same hallways as Henry VIII and his wives (although he owned it he seldom visited the castle) and his most famous daughter Elizabeth I (my personal favourite). Cromwell, the lords and ladies of the court and every King or Queen of England along with Mary Queen of Scots all visited or lived here. I was quite impressed by the whole place but the castle is a beautiful example of excellent conservation, restoration and antiquities displaythat does not allow the modern additions (for everyones comfort) of toilets, restaurants, lifts and other modern facilities to interfere with or obstruct the beauty of the original structures, gardens and grounds. The gardens are amoungst the worlds most magnificent. Only a personal visit can make you truly appreciate them. The rose trees and gigantic peonies were in full bloom and scent.

The weather the day I went to Leeds Castle was ideal... warm, sunny with a slight breeze occassionally. Nary a cloud in the sky and in the sun-traps of the gardens and maze it was quite warm, even hot. I was over-dressed.

Another day trip was to the Isle of Wight (http://www.iwight.com/). I took the train and ferry there. The island has its own train system built from the cast-offs of the London Underground system. So I trained around the Island including a trip to the central part of the island on the Steam Train (http://www.iwsteamrailway.co.uk/). I took a train to the end of the line to a town called Shanklin (http://www.iwight.gov.uk/just_visiting/towns/shanklin.asp) which is supposed to be a pretty place to walk about. The Historic Village dates back to the 800s and earlier and has within it the Shanklin Chine, a forrest conservation area. For me this was not a pleasant visit... it was pouring rain most of the day and drizzling the rest. Though I had an umbrella with me I had decided that the jacket had been much too warm for the past few days and left it at Pooneh's. That's what did it. So I was cold and damp and generally uncomfortable all day except when in a train or other protected environment. My visit to the historic village in Shanklin consisted of a short 20 minute walk that led me to a lovely little pub where the barman poured me a double brandy and I sat in a nice cozy corner to consume it.

It was a long walk back to the train but at least the rain had started to let up a bit. Along the way I ducked into a crafting shop where I bought a cross-stitch kit that has served to keep my hands busy (as they wont to be) ever since. I haven't done cross-stitch since grade 8 "home economics" class. I won an award or two for it back then.

When I returned to London I was supposed to meet Pooneh and her roommate Stephanie at the Jazz Club where they both work. I started getting ready as soon as I got in at about 9:30pm but decided I needed a short refresher nap before going out as I was exhausted and chilled from my day. I set the alarm to wake me at 10:15pm but the next thing I new the fire alarm was sounding at about 3:15 am. Pooneh had warned me about the children studying to be doctors and how they think it's funny to set off the fire alarms when they are drunk (which is every weekend) with nothing else to entertain their tiny little minds. Well when I awoke, Pooneh and Stephanie were not yet home, I joined the very sleepy and angry looking crowd in the courtyard (luckily I was mostly dressed already) and waiting for the fire fighters to arrive to turn off the alarm. They looked very annoyed as this is a regular occurance for them.

The alarms sounded again about 20-30 minutes later and the whole routine pplayed out again. I no longer felt like going anywhere but was unable to get back to sleep because of my aggravation levels. So when P & S arrived home a bit after 4am I was lying on my mattress on the floor reading. I had slept through my alarm sounding at 10:15 and it goes on annoyingly for about 5 minutes.

The next day was Saturday and Pooneh and I were heading out to her parents' home in Henley-on-Thames (http://www.henley-on-thames.com/) for the weekend. We were late arriving in mid-afternoon but went out to her fathers' 3 1/2 acre orchard to help him with his planting and weeding. This is a regular weekend visit for Pooneh and I was glad for the opportunity to meet her parents and see her home. Her parents are lovely people who were very kind and welcoming towards me. Whenever I offerred to help in the kitchen I was shooed away. I slept on the hide-away bed in the sitting room which was very comfortable. I slept like the dead... or maybe I was just too exhausted to sleep any other way.
The next morning was somewhat liesurely as it had rained heavily overnight and we were unable to go to the orchard to work. So Pooneh and I took a long walk into town where she showed me around the sights of Henley. We stopped for a quiet, peaceful lunch at a tea room and then walked back to her parents to pack up our stuff. We were heading to a party, an Aussie Bar-B-Q, at the home of one of her work colleagues from the Club. Of course, as we started into town to meet up with Stephanie and a group of other friends it began to rain, then pour. We huddled together under an awning with umbrellas then made our way to the river's edge to await our pick-up. Our host, Sean, has a home on a tiny island on the river Thames. His home and property are gorgeous. Once we were well underway with the party the rain stopped and the sun came out to make it a perfect day. I met dozens of lovely people there and had a great time.

The next morning I had to get up very early. Not easy after all that wine and the late night trip home. So at 6:30 am I was up and gone to the train station. Off I headed for Ireland.

I'm taking a break here but will continue later.

Posted by gailene at 09:43 AM

June 16, 2003

More about Stockholm...

Spent a day just wandering about in the Gamla Stan (Old Town) shopping and enjoying a eautiful warm sunny day. Met up with Minna (the woman I met on the ferry going to Helsinki) for lunch and a walking visit. That was a nice treat. She has a new job in Stockholm and is quite happy with it.

The weather was gorgeous almost every minute I was in Stockholm.

I flew to Brussels, Belgium on May 30. Marijke met me at the airport. It was so great to see her after all these years and she hasn't changed in the slightest in all that time (it has been about 14 years since last we saw each other) and she was sweet enough to say the same about me. I love it when friends lie to me about this sort of thing.

We had a great time together in Brussels. I wanted to avoid museums, cathedrals and the like as I saw all that when there in 1985 or 86. Instead we took a long walk through parts of the city known for their Art Nouveaux architecture. Her husband Peter was, luckily, able to join us for the weekend (he lives and works in the Netherlands) and we enjoyed each others' company. He is a wonderful man of great intelligence and humour. So it was a great visit to Brussels and Marijke and I enjoyed being able to have a visit. It was a difficult parting and we hope to see each other again soon.

The weather in Brussels was extremely hot for the time of year... 28-32 C every day. I did not have hot weather clothes and had to shop for some with Marijke's help. Peter patiently waited for us outside the shops and enjoyed an ice-cream in our absence in one rather giant multi-level store. Ice-cream street vendors/windows are everywhere in the warmer months and the Belgians keep them in the money with frequent visits. We found a suitable skirt which is already a size too small. All the walking and touring has had its benefits.

Then onto the Eurostar (http://www.eurostar.com/) train, under the channel through the tunnel. Somewhat uneventful and, though interesting to know one is under all that water, also very ordinary. The train first heads downhill into the tunnel and continues the downhill sensation for most of the first half of the trip. It seems to level aff for a short while and then there is a very distinctive uphill climb to the exit. The areas around the entrances to the tunnel at each end look like the security barriers around a nuclear missile sight. More so even. No plantlife, flat stone and cement, several layers of razor wire fences standing at least 3 metres high and brightly lit. The train is quite comfy and luxurious though. The ride is fast, smooth and quiet though the hum in the tunnel is noticable louder.

Arrived in London on time and I immediately took the tube to St. Paul's Cathedral which I missed 2 years ago. Then I returned to Waterloo station, called Pooneh (a bit of difficulty getting in touch because her mobile was on the fritz but managed) and she came to meet me at the station. We got the tube to her place and after I was settled into her room we went out for a late curry supper.

Running out of time again. goodnight.

Posted by gailene at 06:08 PM

quick short entry

Had a great visit with Marike in Stockholm though I was on my own for 2 days because Marike had to work. She is an flight attendant. Saw lots of museums though. Went to the palace (http://www.visit-sweden.com/) where there are 4 museums and the 3 state apartment visits; the Medieval Museum; the Silk weaving museum (http://www.kasiden.se/english.htm) which is actually back in operation to make siks of the exact type originally made for the palace furniture and still using hand looms dating back about 200 years; the National Museum (http://www.nationalmuseum.se/enindex.shtml).

When Marike got back I got a driving tour of the huge parks on the islands of Stockholm and the countryside. We drove out to the Butterfly and bird house (http://www.fjarilshuset.se/frame-e.htm), Skokloster Slott (http://www.lsh.se/skokloster/info.htm) on a lake 2 hours north and Daniella's home in the woods for a visit.

Just ran out of time.

Posted by gailene at 05:28 PM

June 13, 2003

Helsinki to Stockholm...

OK... I tried doing this 2 day ago but the server at the place I was using blew the page away when I tried to publish it... lost all the work. So I am doing just quick short entries to get this up to date.

It's hard to concentrate right now. I'm in the hallway of Sheila's Hostel in Cork, Ireland and the children are in a Friday night party mood.

Helsinki: arrived on time by overnight ferry (Silja Line at http://www.silja.com/english/... very nice) on May 23rd. Met a young Finnish woman on the ferry... she was one of the people in my cabin and we had supper and drinks together. I left her in the bar for awhile to go to the spa for a treatment. I will call her when I return to Stockholm where she now lives and works.

Got a nice room in a hotel right on the tourist tram line. This made it easy to get to all the museums, etc. Went to the train station to check on trains to St. Petersburg... easy to get there but hard and time consuming and costly to get a visa. Travelling to St. Petersburg did not happen. Was also told that accommodation was near impossile to get there because of the 300 years celebrations. So off on a trolley tour of town.
First stop was the Temppeliaukio (Rock Church - http://www.hel.fi/tourism/html/english/artikkelit/artikkelit/temppeliaukio.html). A relly interesting place. it is a modern church built into the side of a rock hill in the middle of town. Only the front entrance gives it away for this is the only modern looking part. For more info see the website.

Other places visited: Hakasalmi Summer House/Manor; Natural History Musum; National Museum of Finland; organ concert at the Rock Church; Tennispalatsi (Tennis Place) for Museum of Culture and Helsinki City Art Museum; Tennispalatsi to see The Matrix Reloaded; Kauppatori Market; Uspenski Cathedral; Senate Square; Finland Museum of Industrial Design; Helsinki City Museum. PHEW!

If you want to know more it is all on the internet at http://www.hel.fi/tourism ... Helsinki is a very plugged in city as Finland is the home of Linux and Nokia is one of their largest manufactured exports.

Took the overnight ferry back to Stockholm. Again a nice ride with a massage in the spa to break up the evening. Arrived in Stockholm on time. Spent the afternoon in the Vasamuseet (http://www.vasamuseet.se/) before going to Marike's (woman met at the Yoga Retreat in Bahamas) flat to meet her. She greeted me with open arms and I got settled in.

That's it for now... the children (20-somethings) are getting out of hand and I want to retreat to my room.

Posted by gailene at 06:13 PM

June 11, 2003

Helsinki

Hope I can remember... it's been so long.

Did all the major museums and sights and cathedrals. Saw The Matrix: Reloaded in a huge building called the Tennis Palace. It has a 14 screen cinema inside along with a museum and an art gallery. Both of these I visited the day before. Had a Helsinki Pass to ride the trams un limited and get into most museums for free. Saw and visited the Rock Church. An interesting modern church with a strong medieval feeling. This is likely caused by the fact that it's built into the rocks of a hill in the middle of town. Only the entrance gives it away as modern. I returned to it the next day to catch an organ practice.

The city in unique in that it's only about 5-6 storeys tall. All the church steeples are visible above the buildings. A very busy, rushing feeling to the daytime city gives way to the relaxed cafe sitting of the evenings. There is a sauna on every corner and a massage parlor (legitimate) on every block. Every hotel has a sauna... including mine which was on my floor.

Gotta run. This place is closing.

Posted by gailene at 04:54 PM

June 05, 2003

to continue with Copenhagen...

Spent one day, 2 nights in Copenhagen so had to make the most of it. First thing in the morning was at the front door of the Danish National Museum for opening. Spent all morning in this fabulous building which houses some of the greatest Rune stones I've ever seen. Saw almost everything in it including yet another excavated viking ship. Had lunch there too. Then ran down the street to the palace where I visited the Theatre Museum for about 20 minutes before it closed. Ran across the courtyard to visit the ruins under the houses of Senate for about 20 minutes before they closed. That was followed by a nice long, leisurely stroll through the Thorvaldsens Museum which is full of some of the largest and not so large sculptures of one of Denmark's most prolific artists. Then stopped at a nice Italian Bistro on the way back to my hotel to have Italian food (could not find a Belgian restaurant anywhere).

The next day I got on a train for Stockholm where I caught the 5:00pm ferry to Helsinki. This is an overnight trip that arrived at 9:30 am.

More about Helsinki tomorrow. Pooneh is sitting next to me waiting to go eat supper. I'm in England now. Got here, to London, June 3rd.

Posted by gailene at 03:32 PM